Fall In Love with Wool Thread Embroidery
Posted by Jo Avery on Oct 18th 2021
How do you reinvent traditional crewel work for the 21st century? Jo Avery shows us how with her new book Modern Crewel Embroidery!
I fell in love with wool thread for embroidery a few years ago and have hardly been unable to use anything else since! There’s actually a special word for embroidery with wool: ‘crewel’. Most people think crewel work involves certain stitches or techniques but it’s much simpler than that. Wool was the only material available when great stitched narratives such as the Bayeaux Tapestry were made and the correct term for these is also crewelwork, however ‘tapestry’ seems to have stuck for now.
The Great Tapestry of Scotland, Panel 1, stitched by Linda McClarkin and Carol Whiteford
Photo by Alex Hewitt
I was introduced to stitching with wool when I became part of a group who worked on a panel for another epic stitched narrative, The Great Tapestry of Scotland, back in 2012/13. This huge community art project tells the inspirational true story of Scotland’s history, heritage and culture (from 8500 BC to present day). It was hand stitched by over 1000 people in communities across Scotland and transported by land, sea and air to come together. It is made up of 160 panels and 300 miles of wool. It’s a remarkable achievement: in an age of speed and technology, it has been created with wool and linen, slowly, methodically and with people coming together to share stories and create a record of their history. I am immensely proud to have been a part of this! A new visitor centre which houses the tapestry and is situated in the Scottish Borders opened in September. I’d like to encourage every visitor to Scotland to add this to their ‘must see’ list!
Doodle Hoop texture – photo Jo Avery
As much as I enjoyed embroidering our panel (number 5) I found the experience of stitching with crewel wool a little frustrating at times. This is a thick 100% wool thread which does tend to break and twist. And then I discovered Aurifil 12wt wool thread. As an Aurifil Designer I like to explore everything this wonderful Italian thread manufacturer has to offer the keen crafter. I realized that a double strand of the 12wt wool was similar in thickness to crewel wool but because it is a mixture of wool and acrylic it doesn’t break or twist! Added to that was the advantage of finer detail achieved using a single strand of thread (something that can’t be done with traditional crewel wool).
As soon as I began embroidering with these fine wool threads I knew I had found my perfect medium. Wool is a great choice for embroidery because it works up quickly and the fluffy threads hide imperfections more readily than cotton or silk. It also gives a raised matte texture which is so pleasing to the eye. My approach to embroidery design is all about colour and texture. I do not use thread to create realistic interpretations of nature or recreate traditional patterns, but instead use it as a 3-dimensional colouring tool for my graphic maximalist patterns.
For my latest book, Modern Crewel Embroidery, I have tried to exploit this added wool texture while offering a new modern twist, simplifying the stitches and aesthetic. The book contains 15 samplers, designed to show off the range of different stitches that are taught through detailed illustrations, both in the basic stitch guide and as bonus stitches which pop up throughout the projects. Much of my inspiration comes from my other great craft love Patchwork and Quilting, and designs include hexagons, clamshells and free-motion-quilting patterns. These samplers are then turned into all sorts of projects such as pouches, pots, pincushions and pillows. There is even an embroidered belt and of course plenty of hoops!
Most of the projects are stitched with my beloved Aurifil 12wt wool and I have produced a new curated thread collection with Aurifil, Stitching With Wool, to accompany the book. This follows on from my original wool thread collection, Modern Crewel Work, which helped kick start the whole idea for the book. Like the look of the designs but want to use your own stock of cotton embroidery thread? No problem at all, these embroideries will look fantastic in all sorts of thread. I have also created a conversion chart from Aurifil 12wt wool to DMC thread to help you when using stranded cotton (link below).
I wanted the book to be both visually stimulating and inspiring, and to offer patterns to suit both embroidery beginners and more experienced stitchers. With so much vibrant colour and so many fun projects to choose from I hope this book will get you itching to stitch and exploring the wonderful possibilities of modern crewel embroidery.
Visit The Great Tapestry of Scotland
Read more about using Wool thread here
Find out where you can buy Aurifil thread here
Aurifil 12wt Wool to DMC conversion chart
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